Hey, I’ve got a faulty oven here that won’t heat up properly. The previous owner suspected a defective heating coil, but they are all functional. I tested it with an oven thermometer: if only bottom heat is on, the thermostat switches correctly and the oven heats up as it should. However, as soon as top heat is (also) on, it only heats up to about 80°C (144°F) below the target temperature.

The sensor is located directly behind the upper coil, so it doesn’t seem too far-fetched that it switches sooner in this case, but 80 degrees too early? It has been working for the past 12 years… In YouTube videos, a faulty thermostat seems to cause the stove to heat non-stop.

Any idea on how I can fix this? I don’t want to buy a spare part only for the problem to persist in the end.

Edit: This is about an IKEA FRAMTID OV9 featuring an EGO 55.17253.120.

  • Butler@lemmy.world
    link
    fedilink
    arrow-up
    2
    ·
    edit-2
    27 days ago

    If you’re handy/industrious enough you can get a simple thermostat like an EGO 55.18062.050 which are fairly cheap and use that as a diagnostic tool.

    If that solves your problem, you can swap out for the expensive part or leave in until it dies.

    I’ve had thermostats fail open or closed. Open meaning the element never switches on or closed meaning the element never switches off.

    I’m not an expert, just a hobbyist.

    Is your thermostat probe in the proper place and the element isn’t hanging off a bracket in the wrong place? Any improper placement of either may be giving an incorrect temp reading on the probe

    • joulethiefOP
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      27 days ago

      Placement looks okay to me, sure is dirty up there though. Could that be the issue?

      • Butler@lemmy.world
        link
        fedilink
        arrow-up
        1
        ·
        27 days ago

        Minor dirt, nothing to worry about in terms of temps but don’t let your mom see it XD.

        Is there only one thermostat?

        • joulethiefOP
          link
          fedilink
          arrow-up
          2
          ·
          27 days ago

          I was about to say yes, but there was one part left that I wasn’t sure what it is, so I checked. The casing says ELTH 271P / T200, which from what I can gather is a thermal cut-off switch. A potential problem cause?

          The active one out of two top heating coils measures 3.6A, roughly 800W at 230V. Seems alright and should not trigger it I guess.

    • joulethiefOP
      link
      fedilink
      arrow-up
      1
      ·
      edit-2
      27 days ago

      I’ve been wondering about whether I could replace it with a cheaper thermostat with a similar rating. I’m gonna check the placement.