I was tightening a nozzle on a spare hotend and wanted to check it was hot enough while I did it. It was easiest to plug it into the chamber thermistor port. I realised it looked a bit silly and thought it was worth a post 😂
I genuinely do have trouble with sunlu abs coming unstuck. My chamber is 60°C, and my parts are hard to remove from the bed when they don’t warp, which I think suggests my build plate is good. Have you / are you using Sunlu abs?
I highly doubt your nozzle is worn out unless you’ve been printing with any special tough filament (e.g. carbon fibre core). It’s completely different machine, but I have over 300 hours on mine and I haven’t had to replace the original brass nozzle yet.
Edit: Perhaps try printing a solid section of only the first layer (no need for the whole bed, but make is fairly large). See if the lines mostly all join up, then reprint without changing anything to check if it is consistent.
I found the fuse, but it wasn’t blown 🥲 I’ve looked over the board, and watched some repair videos but I haven’t found anything. I’ve called it dead now.
Nope, no signs of life with the battery removed and on wall power only. I believe the battery was not to blame, but something went wrong that caused it to also drain the battery. I will check the battery anyway and report back if I find anything interesting. Thanks for the helpful link.
Ah, I realise my wording was very confusing there. I meant: Because the inductor is NOT the problem - I don’t have any idea what the problem is - therefore the LAPTOP is dead (not the inductor)😂
That’s a great tip, but unfortunately the power supply is not turning off. I will refer to this next time though 👌
Current passes through it unfortunately, maybe it’s possible there is a short between coils though. The inductor doesn’t get hot or anything when plugged in.
Even if I don’t manage to fix it. Thanks for the suggestions 👍
Great advice, but unfortunately I’ve checked. 20V from the supply (measured on the laptop PCB), everything removed except the ram because I only have one compatible stick - I did swap the slot though.
Just the continuity test 😅
Thanks. I guess I was just hoping it would be an easy find and fix. The beep confirmed hope is lost 🥲
I’ve never visited the site before so I just assumed it was just malicious, but as @zdanger said, it might be a hijacked legit site.
I do use uBlock. It also didn’t ‘feel’ like an ad. I now expect the site was compromised as you suggested.
Thanks for that. I also didn’t know about that shortcut until now. It will be very helpful 👍😁
I can’t actually make it copy 😅 I’ve now also tried in Firefox and Chrome but it still hasn’t worked.
Thanks, that’s very interesting to know. I assumed it was just a malicious site before.
motorandwheels(dot)com
I’ve also noticed, it doesn’t always come up but let me know if it does for you.
You’re probably right, I should maybe just buy a cheap one. I wondered if maybe some of them are known to use better components or have less coil whine but I don’t think anyone has checked this yet 😅
Thanks for your answer.
Please forgive me, but I strongly believe they are reference cards. I’m referring to the cards built by those different manufacturers, but still using the reference design - all having identical pcbs and coolers - the cards that all look the same, despite having a different brand on the box.
I don’t mean the cards that are designed by those manufacturers and look completely different.
Thanks for the great answer 👍😁
Do you consider sapphire to be morally responsible compared to others? Also, I’m curious, is there a case of one being responsible for a drought that you’re referring to?
I think I’ll try printing cooler first. Hopefully the smaller temp difference will help.
I haven’t tried any GF or CF filament. I’m a bit afraid of it, honestly. I’ve had fibres from sheets of fibre glass stuck in my skin for ages. I just try to avoid it 😆