You still have to deal with typical questionable creality quality. It’s one reason the centurion carbon gets suggested more often.

I believe there is an opsec guide posted somewhere and it needs to be linked on the sidebar. A lot of people outside the US have the same concerns and questions.

It may look like a lot but it’s not and is very easy

All of them must be done otherwise it’s considered easily convertible and treated the same as an actual machine gun. Stock, receiver, and fcg all need to be capable of holding parts for semi auto only.

People will argue which company is better and say the others are trash but the US made ones are all good in my book. US companies come down to personal preferences.

Ria is good and the most common budget kit. I think that’s who makes the sarco kit. Other foreign companies can be a mixed bag and you’d have to look up the specific company and/or the specific model. There’s plenty of Google info though so is usually easy.

Even in the past for petg, it depends on the caliber and design and I’d say the same with abs/asa, pet and and some others. It’s still a better idea to use a better filament and have a larger margin of safety with more strength than you need but they can survive. I have seen several that have used petg over the years with 22 without issue. Larger calibers was more mixed. I personally still won’t use it but I can afford to use nylons on anything I want to keep for a long time.

Just get a kit with all the parts so you aren’t mixing manufacturers. Although if you’ve done any 3d2a build then you probably filed parts before to make them fit and this wouldn’t be any different. Different calibers may not fit but a 45 1911 is a 45 1911 and you can’t go wrong. You can find cheaper kits on gunbroker. Manufacturer quality is argued a lot but people have even made the dirt cheap llama kits work.

It could be several causes but there is no way to know other than taking it apart and looking at where the issue is.

Off the top of my head, I think it was siraya. It was only marginally better from what I heard so I haven’t tried it. Some were saying filled prints easier too.

The reddit post of this is typical reddit slop repeating the same incorrect “common knowledge” bullshit everyone else spouts. If the filament is strong enough then it’s strong enough but it needs to be tested. Shattering is a nonsense excuse. Pet, ppa, pps, any high rigidity does the same and people are perfectly fine with using them.

Some asa/abs cf/gf is similar in that it has better layer adhesion and impact than non filled. But they want to say how it’s worse. Anything needs to look at the actual filament and not generalize. Also scientific progress actually improves new products. It’s unthinkable to redditors.

I can understand generalizing for beginners because there is so much to learn but it gets out of hand.

Brand matters not just the type of nylon and fill. You can try polymakers 612. I know their 12 is a bit expensive otherwise sunlus 12 is decent and cheap.

The concern for moisture is overexaggerated. Without moisture it is too weak and will break. You want moisture. Pa6 is by far one of the weakest filaments when dry and is unsafe when dry. Any coating on the outside is very difficult to keep water tight when moving parts are involved and is more work trying to recoat it for no real benefit. If you live in the swamp, then use other filaments like 12, 612, ppa, etc but as someone who lives in a hot humid environment, pa6 is still good and stronger than pla. The lower rigidity when wet isn’t enough to cause issues. Higher rigidity is nice to have for some stuff and would be why I use the others.

I haven’t dyed anything so don’t know about that. What is your reason to seal it? I have yet to see a worthwhile reason. It either wears off so is pointless or people want to seal it for the wrong reasons. For other things like texture, there are easier methods.

Drilling is simply a necessity caused by typical fdm printing. The top is going to bridge so will sag unless using support material with 0 z height. Even then, it won’t stop the layer stepping and drilling is needed to get as close to a perfect hole as possible for pins to fit as best as they can.

That way is ideal but takes longer. For people wanting to shoot asap, I typically suggest a wet sponge in a container for 2 weeks.

I drill when I build and that’s after annealing and moisture conditioning. There should never be any concern of cracking unless the print itself is bad.

I’ve updated the files with alternate length bolts. The guide now also explains one way of measuring headspace since I got asked that a lot.

Likely an issue with tolerance stacking. With rs22 it’s a bit harder to adjust since the barrel can’t be moved in easily. It would be best if I release bolts with different length options so people can choose the right one that fits.

Eventually I’m going to do a different design (replica this time) with a receiver in a chassis bolt action with a multi piece receiver so headspace can be adjusted easier.

I’m trying to see why he’s claiming only pla can survive. If he has 20 years of experience, I remember back in the day when everyone kept claiming pa6 was too weak to use yet nowadays it’s the complete opposite and seen as one of the best because the simple knowledge of water.

Moisture conditioning.