https://x.com/wnypoker/status/2023143685949378857 This gives you the links to run a mirror of the Index locally so you don’t have to grab files manually.

The bore on the Rimfire can is actually 0.32” and a 32acp is 0.312”. I figured if I did this, I would just oversize the bore by adding a 0.35” negative cylinder to the bore.

Also, it looks like that printer is around $300. Why not just get a Centuri Carbon? It’s basically the same price but enclosed and can print PA6CF which would cover most of your 3D2A needs

What’s your budget for a printer and what do you want to print?

Neither of them are in CA. I don’t know what exactly the state can do since they’re both outside of the state’s jurisdiction.

I think either one works well. I prefer the strength of the U-bolt on the UBAR but you wont go wrong with either. Heck, why not print both and see what you prefer?

If you’re looking for a relatively easy DIY build, I would actually go with the Decker 380 or even the HitchHiker in 22lr. I would recommend the Thru Bolt 380 mod as well sine it’s easier to assemble. It only costs about $120 to build and doesn’t require a welder like the FGC9. It’s way easier to assemble. DECKER 380: https://guncadindex.com/detail/RELEASE-Decker-3.0.1:d DECKER 380 THRU BOLT https://guncadindex.com/detail/Decker-Bolt-Thru-1.0.2:e HITCHHIKER https://guncadindex.com/detail/HitchHiker:e

I had a FTN 4.5 PCC approved. I submitted a screenshot of some filament, the Breek Blast Shield, and an Aluminum tube. The descriptions were along the lines of “Aluminum tube from Amazon to be used for the serial number”

My description for how I build it was, “I WILL PRINT OUT OF PLA+, THEN EPOXY AN ALUMINUM TUBE FOR THE SERIAL NUMBER AND THEN A THREAD ADAPT THAT I BUY ONLINE”

You can get the cam surface in metal by using SCS and just print out the rest of the super safety. https://guncadindex.com/detail/No-Drill-SCSSS:4