Davidson defense has cheap dedicated AR22 barrels. I’ve not had any issues with them. Right to Bear always has great sales as well. You’ll be happier with the dedicated and the better accuracy that comes with those over a conversion barrel setup.

PSA, RTB, CMMG. Doesn’t matter where you source it. They’re all under the same patent and design from the original CMMG. Just sold from different retailers. I bought mine from PSA because they have the best price.

However, the BCA AR22 bolt is a different design and requires a BCA 22lr barrel to match and is not compatible with CMMG style AR22 dedicated barrels

As for printed 22lr bolt designs, the builds that have DIY bolts are normally for that design and that design alone. I dont think I’ve seen anyone run a printed version of a CMMG AR22 bolt. They’re cheap enough that its not usually worth it to print one.

Learning 3D Modeling in this space helped me switch careers and earn more money. Build those skills people 💪🏻

Qd insert is from Hyperion2A and yes the front sight post is from SCS. Still working on the sights.

PETG is way more brittle than PLA and NEVER recommended for printing anything 3d2a because it shatters on failure as a opposed to cracking or splitting.

I do not think it is wise to give advice on printing guns if you do not have any prior knowledge on the subject. You can get someone injured or worse.

I think your overthinking the seams my guy. Your print orientation and the angle at which your layer lines run matters way more than seams. I have never had a lower separate at a seam. If your printer and filament are well calibrated, and you’re printing with an orientation that makes sense for the strength of the part, then you’re good to go. If you’re getting good layer adhesion, it shouldnt matter where your seams end up. Especially on a large part like a lower.

Fixed versions are uploaded, the ugly ducking is no longer ugly

I would add a block inside to tie all those pieces together. Otherwise theres quite a few gaps in there where a separation could occur later.

Didn’t realize there was a demand for a fixed buffer tube adapter. I’ll whip one up when I get home.

Thats what attaches to the picatinny rail.

Looks to me like he removed the ability for it to fold. I suppose I could make a fixed version of these.

I hate you! Nah jk. Jokes aside, was there an issue with my remix? Does it need more beef 🤌🏼?

So I swapped to a 0.6 nozzle. If I change the setting in Orca to 0.6 from 0.4. It wont let me use your 3mf profile. So not sure if im understanding your post. Youre saying all the has to change is the line width? Nothing else? Or should I rebuild your profile in the 0.6 and then make sure all line widths are 0.5 like you say.

Only thing I would change is your Top Z distance on your support settings to 0.265. Perfect setting for supports. Gives it a good interface layer and easy removal after printing.