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GEM Days 6a/14: first Generation GEM Micromatic Clog-Pruf – The Zenith of Razor-Making – Fri 22 Nov 2024
- Brush: Zenith 506B MB (27 mm × 51 mm Manchurian badger)
- Razor: GEM Micromatic Clog-Pruf (first generation, NOS)
- Blade: Personna GEM PTFE
- Lather: Declaration Grooming – Dirtyver
- Post Shave: Saponificio Varesino – Desert Vetiver
- Fragrance: Terre d’Hermès Eau Intense Vétiver
This is shave 11 of my run through all 14 generations of GEM-style razors, and I have reached the first generation Clog-Pruf, around peak maturity of the Micromatic system.
The first generation Micromatic Clog-Pruf
The Clog-Pruf shares all the parts with the second generation MMOC except the base plate. The Clog-Pruf has a scalloped safety bar (with 12 nubs) and two large lather channels where the MMOC had the open comb. Technically, the two razors are entirely equivalent and any preference is just a question of taste. The MMOC has a reputation for being aggressive, and the Clog-Pruf – while being very efficient as well – is considered more middle of the road, although it’s still got plenty of blade feel compared to typical safety razors like a Gillette Tech, a DE89/R89 or its gazillion clones or any Merkur. I was made aware of this razor by sub veteran, LG organiser extraordinaire, and all-around great guy u/merikus, and while I have a mild preference of the MMOC over the Clog-Pruf, I can agree with his sentiment
I literally don’t understand why people even make razors anymore since razor-making reached its zenith in the 1940s with the GEM Clog Pruf. - @merikus@sub.wetshaving.social
The two Clog-Prufs, the second generation MMOC and the Flying Wing are just different mildness variations of the same razor and differ only in the shape of the comb/safety bar. You know you’ve reached maturity if all you change are details and keep all of the fundamentals. So what is the marketing angle for selling this minuscule update to the MMOC? It’s Barbasol! The big lather channels are supposedly designed not to clog with brushless creams.
The shave
A refreshing vetivercentric shave with Dirtyver today. The NOS Clog-Pruf gave me a fantastic shave as always. Once you’ve gotten the hang of any of the Micromatics, they all become great IMO.
The butterscotch Zenith with the comfy handle and the scrubby Manchurian badger knot layers up quickly and I love the scrub.
The timeline
1906-1953: GEM 1912/Star Cadet/Junior/Damaskeene1914-1927: 19141924-1933: 1924 Shovelhead1930-1932: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 1 (Bumpless baseplate)1932-1941: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 2 (double-edge Micromatic GEM blades)- 1940-1943: Micromatic Clog-Pruf ← We are here
- 1945-1946: Micromatic Clog-Pruf Peerless
- 1947-1950: Micromatic Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, with guiding eye until 1948, with plastic knob in the last year
- 1949-1953: GEM Jewel/Streamline/Ambassador (The beginning of the end IMHO)
- 1950: New GEM Feather Weight, renamed to “Slim-V Flat Top” in 1953, British version sold as “Natural Angle” by Ever-Ready
- 1955-1958: GEM V-Slim “Heavy Flat Top” (G-Bar, shiny chrome), New V Natural Angle Heavy Flat Top (E-Bar, less shiny nickel)
- 1958-1965: Push Button
- 1965-1973: Contour
- 1973-1979: Countour II (The last GEM razor)
I ended up with a Clog-Pruf before ever trying a MMOC. The people in Discord said the Clog-Pruf was milder, so I assumed it would be closer to my preferences. It turns out they’re both super close to each other, and although I don’t know if I have a preference between the two, if I could only keep one it would be the Micro-Matic Open Comb.
I’m looking forward to what you have to say about the Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, which is my favorite of the bunch.
I’m looking forward to what you have to say about the Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, which is my favorite of the bunch.
tomorrow!
I continue to enjoy this series. The DE razor (and blades) were marketed in parallel with SEs. Was the popularity of DEs all about low-cost replaceable blades?
Thank you! I enjoy writing it!
Was the popularity of DEs all about low-cost replaceable blades?
I don’t know, and I wonder about it a lot. The GEM system seems technically better, and IMHO makes for better mass-produced razors than the Gillette format. Might it just be network effects?
My suspicion is that it was marketing. I think the band steel used for DE blades was a boon for blade production. The band steel seems to be a perfect fit for high volume, multi-stage manufacture. Gillette heavily promoted replaceable blades, and as I recall, the company’s business model was to make its profits through high-volume/low margin sales of blades.
Marketing sounds plausible. The Doubledge Micromatic blades would have had the exact same arguments in their favour, yet they didn’t stick around.
Maybe it’s one of those mac vs windows stories. Two roughly equivalent systems and one of them gets big first.
November 22, 2024
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Brush: Wald Nimbus Chryselephantine 29mm A1 Fan
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Blade Holder: Haircut & Shave Co P076 Ti
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Blade: Astra Superior Platinum (9)
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Lather: Declaration Grooming - Darkfall - Soap
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Aftershave: Declaration Grooming - Darkfall - Aftershave
2 passes. Face lather. Excellent shave.
This Haircut & Shave razor is a real find, and it was right there in my collection. I just haven’t paid much attention to it until now. I think most people would consider this to be an aggressive razor. There’s plenty of blade feel. But, the cap design allows you to maintain that blade feel and use a low angle. If you know how to do this, then the resulting shave is very close and very comfortable.
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November 22, 2024
- Brush: Maggard 24mm SHD Bulb
- Razor: Chiseled Face - Legacy Raw Titanium (#69)
- Blade: Personna Lab Blue (3)
- Lather: Chiseled Face - Gearhead - Soap
- Post Shave: Summer Break Soaps - Woodshop - Aftershave
- Post Shave: Goodfellow & Co. - Face Lotion - Kelp & Sea Mineral
I love the Chiseled Face soap base. I also love the Chiseled Face Legacy razor.
I wonder, if Ron hadn’t been a regular on the sub in the past, would his marketing have gotten a pass? It’s not my cup of tea, yet I still have a favorable view of the brand overall.
Woodshop pairs great with Gearhead.
Friday, November 22, 2024: FLS - Stag Friday
- Brush: Grizzly Bay - v24 Fanchurian 26mm badger
- Razor: Chiseled Face - Titanium Legacy Razor
- Blade: Personna - Lab Blue (5)
- Lather: Chiseled Face - Midnight Stag
- Post: Chiseled Face - Midnight Stag Aftershave splash
- Post: Ginger’s Garden - Unscented AS balm (+ menthol)
- Frag: Chiseled Face - Midnight Stag EdP
I felt like rocking the Stag trifecta today to celebrate the end of the week. CF base gave me a great lather as always. I also particularly enjoy the CF splash formula, for whatever reason it really agrees with my skin and has the perfect level of menthol for me.
I hope you all have a great Friday and an even better weekend.
November 22, 2024
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Brush: AP Shave Co Lemondrop 28mm SynBad
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Blade Holder: Gillette Super Speed Y4
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Blade: Astra Superior Platinum (10)
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Lather: Spearhead Shaving Company - Seaforth! Heather - Soap
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Aftershave: Spearhead Shaving Company - Seaforth! Heather - Aftershave
2 passes. Face lather. Excellent shave.
I managed to get a fougère Friday in for my second luxury shave today. Shawn Maher put so much character in each of the Seaforth! Scents. Each one I’ve tried has been distinctive. With so many fougères out there, I imagine that this on was a real challenge, but he managed to produce a great one.
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Nov 22, 2024 - Fougère Friday: Old Strathcona
- Brush: Chisel & Hound Foundry 26mm Declaration Grooming B16 Badger Knot
- Razor: Blackland Razors Blackbird Ti
- Blade: Gillette Platinum [12]
- Lather: MacDuffs Soap Company - Old Strathcona - Soap (V4)
- Post Shave: MacDuffs Soap Company - Old Strathcona - Aftershave (Alcohol Free)
Posting late.
Punctuality is overrated :)
😅
GEM Days 6b/14: first Generation GEM Micromatic Clog-Pruf – The Zenith of Razor-Making – Fri 22 Nov 2024
- Brush: Zenith 506B MB (27 mm × 51 mm Manchurian badger)
- Razor: GEM Micromatic Clog-Pruf (first generation, NOS)
- Blade: Personna GEM PTFE
- Lather: Stirling Soap Co. – Christmas Eve
- Post Shave: Stirling Soap Co. – Friends to the End
Late and tipsy shave after a little party. Worked out alright and I smell delicious.
This was shave 12 of my run through all 14 generations of GEM-style razors:
1906-1953: GEM 1912/Star Cadet/Junior/Damaskeene1914-1927: 19141924-1933: 1924 Shovelhead1930-1932: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 1 (Bumpless baseplate)1932-1941: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 2 (double-edge Micromatic GEM blades)- 1940-1943: Micromatic Clog-Pruf ← We are here
- 1945-1946: Micromatic Clog-Pruf Peerless
- 1947-1950: Micromatic Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, with guiding eye until 1948, with plastic knob in the last year
- 1949-1953: GEM Jewel/Streamline/Ambassador (The beginning of the end IMHO)
- 1950: New GEM Feather Weight, renamed to “Slim-V Flat Top” in 1953, British version sold as “Natural Angle” by Ever-Ready
- 1955-1958: GEM V-Slim “Heavy Flat Top” (G-Bar, shiny chrome), New V Natural Angle Heavy Flat Top (E-Bar, less shiny nickel)
- 1958-1965: Push Button
- 1965-1973: Contour
- 1973-1979: Countour II (The last GEM razor)
Friday, November 22, 2024: SLS
- Brush: Yaqi - Sagrada Familia 24mm Synthetic
- Razor: RazoRock - Game Changer .68
- Blade: Astra Superior Platinum (4)
- Lather: House of Mammoth - Shire
- Post: Barrister and Mann - Roam Two Aftershave splash
- Post: Stirling - Glacial Unscented Aftershave balm
- Post: Barrister and Mann - Roam Two EdT
First shave with Shire (thanks /u/schontzm!) and I’m impressed. HoM base gave a great lather, and the scent is complex and comforting. I’m not sure whether I want the set, need to shave with this one some more.
Overall a good shave, though I got distracted and nicked myself on the chin.
Off to the weekend, have a good one y’all.
